Historical background and roots of tradition
Olbia, known in Sardinian Logudorese and Campidanese as Terranoa and in Gallurese as Tarranoa, is the capital of Gallura, in north-east Sardinia. From the Middle Ages until 1939 the city was known as Terranova, or Terranova Pausania, before its ancient Greek-origin name was restored. A major port and the primary link between Sardinia and mainland Italy, Olbia grew rapidly in the second half of the twentieth century thanks to tourism and the development of the Costa Smeralda. Its traditional dress belongs to the Gallurese tradition and reflects the wearer’s marital status and social standing.
Women’s dress
The festive women’s costume of Olbia consists of an embroidered black tibet headscarf and a gonna copricapo (head-covering skirt) in violet brocaded satin, worn draped over the head. The base is a white cotton shirt; over it is worn a jacket in black and fuchsia brocaded velvet on a violet ground. The outer skirt is in black cloth with a brocaded velvet hem band, also in black and fuchsia on a violet ground. A violet brocaded satin apron bordered with gold galloon completes the dress. The passementerie applied at the join between the cloth and the velvet hem band was a distinctive mark of each family, who personalised their dress in this way.
Men’s dress
The festive men’s dress is known locally as Istiri di la muta. The Camisgia, a white cotton shirt, features lace on the collar, chest, armhole and cuffs. Over it is worn the Cansciu, a bordeaux velvet waistcoat with the back in black satin, a round collar, two side pockets and a central button fastening. The white cotton breeches reach mid-calf and are worn tucked into the gaiters. The Raghi, a black orbace woollen overskirt reaching mid-thigh with a wrap-around closure, is worn over the breeches.
Jewelry & Accessories
The Berritta, the men’s headwear, is a black cloth cap of tubular shape with rounded edges, approximately sixty centimetres long, worn falling to one side. The Calzitti are black orbace gaiters edged with velvet at the lower part: they cover the calf, taper off rounded to conceal part of the shoes, and are fastened with a blue lace below the knee.
