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Traditional Dress of Tuili

Province of Medio Campidano — Marmilla

Historical background and roots of tradition

Tuili, known in Sardinian as Tuìrhi, is a village in the Marmilla, in the province of Medio Campidano. It lies at the foot of the Giara plateau; in the Middle Ages it belonged to the Giudicato of Arborea.

Women’s dress

The muccadori, a square white cotton headscarf, is worn folded into a triangle: it gathers the hair and is tied at the back of the neck.

The sciallu, a square black wool shawl, is hand-embroidered with polychrome floral motifs and trimmed with applied fringe. It is worn folded into a triangle with the ends left loose.

The camisa, a white cotton shirt, features embroidery on the neckline, chest and cuffs.

The croppettu, a purple broccatello bodice, is edged with red velvet and gold passementerie, and fastened at the front with a crossed ribbon.

The unnedda, a brown woollen skirt, is fully pleated except for the front panel, which is covered by the apron.

The deventali, a purple damask satin apron, completes the festive women’s dress.

Men’s dress

The berrita, a black tubular panno cap with rounded edges and about sixty centimetres long, is worn folded over and left to fall at the front.

The camisa, a white cotton shirt, is embroidered on the chest and cuffs.

The iste 'e peddi, a white lambskin waistcoat, has brown leather edging.

The cratzonis, white cotton trousers cut to mid-calf, are worn tucked into the gaiters.

The ragas, a black orbace kilt-skirt, is pleated and edged with black velvet, reaching mid-thigh; a narrow strip of fabric joins the front and back panels, passing between the legs.

The cratzas, black panno gaiters edged with black velvet, cover the calf and end in a rounded shape concealing part of the shoe; they fasten with a row of side buttons.

Main fabrics

Cotton, Wool, Broccatello, Satin, Velvet, Orbace, Leather

Occasion

Religious festivals, folk parades

Traditional Dances of Tuili

Passu sartiau

The passu sartiau, the “leaping step”, is a lively dance of the Marmilla in which the dancers, in a circle and holding hands, enrich the step with small leaps in time with the music. It calls for agility and harmony and is one of the most engaging moments of the festivals of Tuili.

Passu sartiau from Tuili – YouTube video preview

Passu trobeddau

Passu trobeddau is one of the traditional dances of Tuili, performed in a circle with dancers holding hands and following the rhythm of the music together. Cadenced steps and livelier figures alternate according to patterns handed down from generation to generation, which the village folk groups perform at festivals in traditional dress.

Passu trobeddau from Tuili – YouTube video preview