Traditional Dress of Mara

Historical background and roots of tradition

Mara, known in Sardinian as Mara, is a village of the Meilogu, in the Province of Sassari, set among the hills of the Logudoro. The place-name is of pre-Roman origin and reflects the Sardinian word mara, meaning "marsh" or "wetland", with possible Phoenician roots in the term hamara, denoting a salt-water marsh: the name most likely describes the damp environment in which the original settlement arose. The territory has been inhabited since the Nuragic age, as evidenced by the numerous nuraghes scattered across the surrounding landscape. In the Middle Ages the village belonged to the Giudicato di Torres within the Meilogu curatoria, and subsequently came under the rule of the Doria family and then the Aragonese. The historic centre is dominated by the parish church of San Lorenzo, while the feast of Nostra Signora di Bonuighinu, celebrated between September and October, is the most deeply felt religious occasion in the community.

Women’s dress

The festive women’s dress begins with su muccaloru, a light beige figured silk square headscarf worn folded into a triangle with the ends loose and pinned to the hairstyle. Sa camigia, the blouse, is white cotton, embroidered on the chest in drawn-thread work (puntu a tramesu), falling below the knee; the fullness is gathered at the neckline and cuffs by dense pleating embroidered with geometric puntu vanu motifs, and it is fastened at the neck with two silver filigree buttons.

S’imbustu, the bodice, is white silk embroidered with polychrome floral motifs and enriched with sequins; made of two symmetrical sections stiffened with palm-leaf stays and joined at the back with a fixed lacing, it ends in two iron points at the front and is tied under the bust with a pink satin ribbon. Over it is worn su corittu, a small black velvet jacket edged with beige braid and gold thread fringe; its reduced size leaves the bodice visible, and it is embroidered with polychrome silk threads, gold thread and sequins on the sleeves and back, closing at the wrists with four buttons.

Sa munnedda, the skirt, is black brocade with a burgundy floral pattern, fully pleated except for the front panel covered by the apron, with a wide green satin flounce trimmed with gold braid. Sa falda, the apron, is black tulle with satin inserts in a floral pattern.

Men’s dress

Sa berritta, the headpiece, is black cloth, tubular with rounded edges, approximately fifty centimetres long, worn drooping to the front. S’entone, the shirt, is white cotton, pleated on the chest and gathered at the cuffs and armhole, with side buttoning and closure at the neck and wrists with silver filigree and garnet buttons.

Su corittu, the jacket, is black velvet edged entirely with black woollen braid; double-breasted with a row of ornamental buttons, it has two side pockets and a small pocket for a watch. Sos colpettes, the waistcoat, is likewise black velvet edged with black woollen braid, with two wide side pockets trimmed with black braid and buttons covered in black velvet.

Sos caltzones, the breeches, are white cotton, falling to mid-calf, worn tucked into the leggings. Sas ragas, the short kilt, is black orbace reaching mid-thigh, with a narrow strip of fabric connecting the front and back panels between the legs. Sas fosas, the leggings, are black orbace, covering the calf and rounding over the shoes, fastened below the knee with black laces. Sa chintolza, the belt, is brown leather.