The Traditional Costume of Gadoni
Gadoni, known in Sardinian as Adòni, is a village of the Barbagia di Belvì, in the province of Nuoro, set at 696 metres above sea level. Its territory stretches from the Corongia plateau to the gorges of the Flumendosa river at the foot of the Gennargentu massif, and is rich in prehistoric and nuragic remains connected to the ancient copper-mining activity at Funtana Raminosa, active since the nuragic period and closed only in 1980.
Women’s dress
The women’s festive costume of Gadoni, estiri de sa festa, stands out for its vivid combination of green and red. The headdress is the scuffia, a bag-shaped cap in red silk with a red ribbon sewn along the edge and tied behind the nape, over which the muccadori is worn: a square white cotton-tulle handkerchief embroidered with floral motifs, folded into a triangle with the ends crossed under the chin. Sa camisa, the white cotton shirt embroidered with cut-work on the chest, reaches to the knee, is gathered at the armhole and cuffs, and fastened at the neck with two gold filigree buttons held by a small red ribbon. The bodice su cossu is in green brocade with golden floral motifs, edged with red cotton-patterned ribbon with polychrome floral motifs and laced at the front with a crossed red ribbon. The jacket su cipponi, in green velvet edged with red and green satin ribbon and enriched with gold passementerie, is worn open at the front; the sleeves have two openings — on the front from elbow to wrist and on the outside at elbow height — through which the shirt emerges, and are fastened just above the wrist with a band of cotton cloth with floral motifs.
The sauzzu, the gathered red orbace skirt, is held at the waist by two pairs of ties and finished with green cord and yellow stitching; it has a green satin border and a pocket sewn to the front. Sa fascadrogia, the long, narrow green velvet apron with a rounded lower edge, is entirely edged with floral-patterned cotton ribbon. Red cotton stockings migias and black leather shoes cazzolas complete the costume.
The everyday women’s dress consists of a black wool headscarf, a white cotton shirt, a blue brocade bodice with polychrome floral motifs, a black cotton jacket with various violet woven patterns, a black printed satin skirt, and a black cotton apron.
Men’s dress
The men’s everyday dress of Gadoni shows a sober elegance dominated by black and green. The berritta longa, a black cloth tubular cap with rounded edges and about seventy centimetres long, is worn folded over on itself. Sa camisa, the white cotton shirt, is enriched with sangallo lace at the chest and cuffs. Su cropettu, the black velvet double-breasted waistcoat, has two side pockets. The jacket su cipponi in green velvet, finished with yellow and red thread stitching, is worn open at the front; the sleeves have an inner opening at elbow height and are fastened at the wrists with three buttons. The caltzonis, white cotton trousers reaching to mid-calf, are worn tucked into the gaiters. The onnedda, the black orbace kilt edged with black velvet and reaching mid-thigh, is joined by a thin strip of fabric passing under the crotch of the trousers connecting the front and back panels. The caltzas, black orbace gaiters edged with black velvet, cover the calf and end in a rounded shape concealing part of the shoes; they are fastened below the knee with ties. The brentera, a brown leather belt embroidered with red and green thread, has a wide front pocket for carrying belongings.
